Sump Pump Installation: Installing a Check Valve

Sump Pump Installation: Installing a Check Valve With the sump pump, riser, and float in place, install a 1 inch check valve on the riser. This valve is essential for the continued high performance of the sump pump engine as it prevents the pump motor from burning out. Without the check valve, water that is pumped up the riser pipe would fall back into the sump pit every time the pump is turned off or automatically shut off. The small volume of water that remains in the riser and check valve is enough to activate the pump, which runs for a few moments and then shuts off again. The continuous on and off sequence could burn out the sump motor and significantly shorten its life.

The check valve likely will come included with hose clamps and rubber couplings. Be sure to position the valve so that the flow of the water is up. Position the check valve so that the up arrow is pointed up. With the check valve placed over the riser, secure it in place by tightening the lower couplings over the riser with a nut driver or a screwdriver. Above the check valve, you will add a second riser that will run into the space between the basement ceiling joists. You will cut the length of the second riser according to the height and position of the horizontal run than goes to the outside of the house. Secure the second riser in place over the upper coupling of the check valve with a hose clamp.

Due to city building codes, the groundwater will most likely cannot be directed into your household plumbing system, so the piped water will be directed to another section of your property, at a sufficient distance from your house. Your best option will be to bore through the rim joist of the house and run the piping through the rim joist and outer wall of the house. From the outer wall, the water will be carried by more piping to a location far enough away from the house that the water won't just seep back into the soil immediately surrounding the perimeter of your house. Boring from the outside of the wall will produce less damage to the exterior siding or splintering of the hole. To find the right area to drill from the outside, first bore a quarter inch hole through the rim joist and siding from the inside. Next, mount a 2 inch drill bit onto your drill and bore the finished hole from the exterior of the house.

As an alternative method, you could to the same job with a holesaw, using a inch pilot hole as a guide to work the right size hold from both sides of the wall. With the hole drilled, you are going to connect the PVC pipe leading away from the house with the second riser with a 90 degree PVC elbow fitting. First, slide a length of PVC pipe through the joist and position in near the vertical riser. Hold the elbow near where the two pipes come close to one another. Next, cut the riser to the precise length to make the three pieces of piping fit together perfectly. You will make a secure and airtight connection between the riser, elbow, and exterior PVC pipe using PVC glue. Double check to determine that the riser is the exact length before completing the discharge piping outside.

Next, completing the discharge piping.