Sump Pump Installation: Complete the Discharge Piping

Sump Pump Installation: Complete the Discharge Piping Once the discharge piping (the piping that extends from the inside of the house to the outside of the house), elbow, and second riser have been connected, move to the outside of the house. From the outside of the house, cut the horizontal piping where it extends inches away the siding. Next, you are going to make a 90 degree turn downward by connecting the horizontal pipe with an elbow and a pipe that is perpendicular to the ground. The piping that goes down towards the ground is known as the purge pipe. Connect the elbow at both ends with glue. Next, the landscaping of your yard and geography of your property will determine how you lay your additional piping. The goal will be to divert this ground water far enough away so that you are not simply recycling it into soil that will seep the water back into your sump pit. If your yard continues away from your house in a steep downhill slope, the piping can discharge onto a splash block, very similar to a downspout. A splash block is like a rubber or plastic aqueduct for your home that ranges in length from several inches to several feet. The discharge pipe may empty out onto a splash block, or turn again and run a certain length along the ground, or even underground via a dug trench.

Building a line with a downward slope. As long as the water drainage system emptied water at a sufficient distance from the home so that the water does not drain back towards it, and at an angle that no water travels backwards, the pipe will empty all of its water after the pump stops and water freezing shouldn't pose a problem.

Use a high-end silicone-based caulk that is flexible enough to absorb shock created by the vibration of the sump pump. With the piping and pump itself in place, complete the project by plugging its power cable into the closest electrical outlet that meets safety guidelines as specified by your local building codes and the manufacturer of the sump pump. Your electrical outlet should be a GFCI-protected receptacle. You should then test the system by pouring about 10 gallons of water into the sump pit.

Here is a list of some submersible sump pumps on the market that should fit your budget requirements.
Little Giant SP25T - 1/4 HP Thermoplastic Submersible Sump Pump w/ Tether Float Switch. This horse power is an automatic sump pump that would be ideal for light water removal. The pump's engineered, reinforced thermoplastic construction makes it very durable and resistant to rust and corrosion. This sump pump is equipped with a tethered float switch that offers reliable automatic operation for 14" and greater basins.

Superior Pump 92015 - 1/3 HP Remote Sink/Drain Pump System w/ Vertical Float Switch. This pump is also built with rust and corrosion resistant materials to make this pump long lasting before it will need to be replaced. Among its many high-end components are its stainless steel motor shaft and fasteners. This pump's full flow check valve prevents the back flow of water into the basin.